I spent a dreamy winter weekend in Charlevoix, Quebec: Here’s everything I did

Sometimes, the cure for winter blues is actually a cozy countryside escape — and Charlevoix is just the place to rekindle your love for the season.

Last week, I ventured into this snow-covered wonderland, just an hour from Quebec City, and let me tell you: my appreciation for winter has skyrocketed.

Getting there from Vancouver was pretty easy — an Air Canada flight to Toronto and then Quebec City. Totally worth the journey.

Whether you want to ski down scenic slopes, explore the local arts scene, or enjoy next-level fine dining along the Charlevoix Flavour Trail, this hidden gem region is a dreamy escape that feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Winter in Charlevoix is, in a word, magic. Here’s what I did to make the most of it.

Day 01

A relaxing morning at Le Germain Charlevoix

On my first morning in the town of Baie-Saint-Paul, I woke to the soft glow of sunlight flooding my room at Le Germain Hotel & Spa Charlevoix, feeling well-rested and ready to explore. Breakfast at Les Labours Restaurant was just what I needed to kick-start the day: a gorgeous buffet full of fresh fruit, freshly-baked goods, coffee — the works!

All caffeinated up, my partner and I took a stroll around the hotel grounds, where we stumbled upon a delightful surprise: highland cows grazing peacefully against the backdrop of rolling hills.

Once the site of Canada’s largest wooden farm (sadly lost to fire in 1997), Le Germain Charlevoix has been transformed into a farm-inspired retreat that blends rustic charm with modern luxury.

The rooms are unique, spread across separate buildings with varying decor styles. We stayed in the Clos building, which featured barn-style wood accents, soaring ceilings, and large windows showcasing farm views.

After exploring, we headed to Nordic Spa Le Germain for a thermal experience featuring hot and cold baths, a Finnish sauna, eucalyptus steam room, and snow fountain — all set in a tranquil, pastoral setting. Fast forward a couple of hours and we were completely rejuvenated, ready to tackle the day!

Exploring Bae-Saint-Paul

Next, we headed into Baie-Saint-Paul proper and took a walk down the historic and colourful Rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste, a street brimming with galleries, boutiques, and cafes.

For lunch, we settled in at Le Saint-Pub, a cozy microbrewery with a lively atmosphere. Naturally, I couldn’t resist ordering a poutine (when in Quebec, right?!) and it didn’t disappoint. Crispy fries, rich gravy, and squeaky cheese curds — you can’t go wrong!

Soaring over Charlevoix

Next up was an activity I was pretty darn nervous about — my first-ever helicopter ride with Heli-Charlevoix! But as soon as we were airborne, my nerves vanished and were replaced with pure awe.

We soared high over stunning vistas and I couldn’t stop myself from snapping photos every couple of seconds. Frozen lakes and winding rivers painted the landscape below, and although we kept an eye out for moose, they decided not to show up for us this time.

Our pilot Mathis was not only highly skilled but also an excellent guide, pointing out landmarks and sharing local history throughout the flight.

We saw the Charlevoix crater, which was carved out by a meteorite millions of years ago, and the impressive snow-capped Massif de Charlevoix. It was an exhilarating experience and one I’d highly recommend to anyone visiting the region!

A stop at La Famille Migneron de Charlevoix

Next up was a visit to La Famille Migneron de Charlevoix, a family-run producer of cheese, wine, and spirits. Our guide, Philippe, let us sample a variety of cheeses made from cow’s and sheep’s milk — each with its own unique flavour profile — and taught us about the maturing process.

We tried some delicious wines, but the real standout here was the vodka, which is made in a pretty unique way using whey from their cheese production. It was unlike anything I’d tried before: surprisingly smooth and slightly sweet with a subtle blueberry-like aftertaste.

Dinner at Le Bercail

We wrapped up the day by heading back to Le Germain for dinner at Le Bercail, a cozy restaurant that uses ingredients sourced from the hotel’s own gardens.

I opted for the veggie pizza and a garden salad, while my partner enjoyed a four-cheese pizza and butternut squash soup. The salad was a revelation — who knew something so simple could be so delicious?! The honey-mustard dressing was a perfect balance of sweet and savoury. And the pizzas, topped with local cheeses (including some from La Famille Migneron), were equally impressive.

To pair with our meal, we sipped a Verger Sour — a popular cocktail crafted with Belle de Brillet, ginger ale, and cinnamon — and ended the evening by cozying up by the restaurant’s fireplace and enjoying a glass of wine.

Day 02

Sledding at Le Massif

Le Massif de Charlevoix is a ski resort that boasts 53 trails, an exhilarating cross-country skiing path, and is known for having the highest vertical drop east of the Canadian Rockies, measuring 2,526 ft!

Being newbies to the world of winter sports, we left skiing to the pros and opted for an epic sledding adventure instead. If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, you can also partake in night sledding here, where your descent will be lit only by a headlamp.

Speeding down the face of Mont à Liguori on a 7.5 km track was an unforgettable experience, and there was tons of absolutely spectacular scenery along the way. We got to stop and take it in a couple of times, including a break at a cozy chalet where we warmed up with hot chocolate.

After our snow adventure, we stopped into Camp Boule Restaurant for lunch, fueling up with the soup of the day, mushroom arancini, and a vegetarian polenta dish topped with more cheese from La Famille Migneron. Très savoureux!

Sipping honey wines at Hydromel Charlevoix

Next, we were off to Hydromel Charlevoix, a company that creates wines and spirits with honey sourced from its very own beehives! We met with Marc, who taught us all about the winemaking and distillation process as we tried some of the different products.

I was particularly impressed by the Saint Antoine Fortifié, a honey and strawberry port-inspired wine that tasted like dessert in a glass. (I may have brought one or two bottles back to Vancouver!) The company plans to open a bee museum in Baie-Saint-Paul in the coming year, so keep an eye out for that.

Visiting Musée d’art contemporain de Baie-Saint-Paul

After that, we stopped by the Musée d’art contemporain de Baie-Saint-Paul, the only museum institution in eastern Quebec devoted entirely to contemporary art.

Fun fact: Baie-Saint-Paul has nearly 20 art galleries — which is wild for a town of just 7,000 people! Locals told us that artists flock from all over the world just to paint here. There’s so much to explore in this vibrant artistic hub — and this museum is a great jumping-off point.

Checking in to Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

It was time to say goodbye to Bae-Saint-Paul and head over to La Malbaie to check in to the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu. The historic hotel, which was established 125 years ago, is truly a sight to behold, perched on a cliff overlooking the majestic St. Lawrence River and reminiscent of a French castle.

After enjoying a cocktail from the expert mixologists at the lobby bar, we headed to Restaurant Le Saint-Laurent for one of the best meals I’ve had in years. Complete with a beautiful view of the river below, this award-winning, MICHELIN-starred restaurant blends a sophisticated fine dining experience with a laid-back vibe. 

Tapping into its surroundings, the menu highlights the best of French and Quebecois cuisine, featuring seasonal produce from local farms.

For the first course, I savoured a roasted celeriac dish, which was paired with a rich, herb-infused crème. For the main, we indulged in a gourmet veggie burger, consisting of a hearty, perfectly-seasoned patty and a crisp, fresh salad. I’m still dreaming about it a week later!

Day 03

Exploring the frozen Malbaie River

After a delicious buffet breakfast in the hotel’s second restaurant, Le Bellerive, we hit the road towards Parc national des Hautes‑Gorges-de-la-Rivière‑Malbaie. Year-round, this park is an outdoor lover’s paradise, renowned for its dramatic natural beauty. 

One of the best things to do in winter here is to explore the frozen Malbaie River valley, accessible by ski, snowshoe, fat bike, or foot. With few people around, we were able to embrace the quiet stillness of the snow-covered landscape — the perfect escape into nature’s serenity.

Tasting offbeat beers at Menaud

After our hike, we stopped by Menaud, a small distillery and brewery that produces grain-to-bottle spirits and distinguished beers. Our host Antoine gave us some delightfully “weird beers,” as he called them, to try. Our favourite was Poivre, a fascinating brew that combines the floral scents of alder pepper with a spicy kick of black pepper and a subtle sweetness to finish.

Another must-try here is the gin, which is distilled with local botanicals like juniper berry, glasswort, and elderberry.

Goodbye dinner at Chez Truchon

Sad to leave this gorgeous wonderland, we wrapped up our Charlevoix adventure with a memorable dining experience at the charming Chez Truchon, a very cool century-old house, turned restaurant and inn.

The menu here offers a delightful mix of crowd-pleasing classics and inventive dishes, plus the service was excellent. We sunk our teeth into Gnocchi served in a rich, creamy cashew sauce — a comforting yet refined take on a traditional favourite.

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After three unforgettable days in Charlevoix, I can confidently say this region exceeded all my expectations. If the chance to return ever comes my way, I wouldn’t hesitate for a second — it’s just that special!

Charlevoix has all the makings of a destination that’s poised to become super popular with travellers from around the world, with so, so much to explore. So, add it to the top of your list. Trust me, it’s a winter adventure you won’t regret.

_{The author of this article was hosted by Tourism Charlevoix.}

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