Penner: Western heritage and hospitality central focus in the heart of Alberta

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My alarm wasn’t needed. Just before sunrise, a roiling mass of coal-black cloud approached from the west and a deafening crack of thunder shocked me from my slumber. I peered out of my tent and saw the blood-red eastern sky on the verge of catching fire. I got dressed in five seconds flat, grabbed my camera bag, and, just as gorgeous gilded light started painting the plains, set my tripod down to capture the scene: The beautifully restored Rowley grain elevators rising from lemon-yellow canola, the crimson-and-chaotic sky, the rolling landscape, the vast space. Yes, indeed, there’s nothing like immersing yourself in the “heart” of Alberta!

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At the “heart” of anything is, truly, where you want to be. Sure you can dabble around the edges, seek the superficial, and just scratch the surface of whatever you’re doing or wherever you’re going. Or you can get right to where the most powerful, life-giving stuff happens.

When it comes to ripping around Alberta – this time of year, especially! – the “heart” is where I love to go. Where’s that, you ask? Located approximately 200 kilometres northeast of Calgary, Stettler County is a pretty good start. And right now, with canola blazing, rivers rushing, and wildflowers in bloom, it’s about the prettiest time of year to take a rural road trip.

Interestingly, Stettler is actually officially dubbed “The Heart of Alberta.” And, yes, I’d say that moniker fits like a glove.

True, the town of Stettler, population 5,695, is basically in the geographic “heart” of the province. So that alone is a good enough reason for the tagline. However, there’s more to it than that. In many ways, Stettler is the quintessential Alberta town. The poster child for what Alberta is all about. All of our province’s key industries (you know them) have deep roots there. A rural, grassroots and unpretentious vibe envelops everything. And the countrified, hard-working folk, especially, are central to it all.

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“We’re warm and welcoming here,” says Kami Ritz, communications director for the Stettler Regional Board of Trade. “To me, it’s really the ‘people aspect’ that’s key when it comes to Stettler being the ‘heart’ of Alberta. But certainly, our industries, our vibrant downtown that services a fairly large rural area, our outdoor ways, the rich community aspect, our prairie roots, these are all core components.”

Fittingly, the main attractions in the area all showcase this “heart.” For example, the Alberta Prairie Railway, a world-class railway excursion that runs from Stettler to the charming western heritage village of Big Valley, is the top attraction in the area. The thrilling six-hour adventure includes a “mock” train robbery, dinner at the end of the line, beautiful prairie scenery, and plenty of time for all the participants to wander around Big Valley. The main attractions in Big Valley include the 115-year-old brick Roundhouse ruin, the old CNR Railway Station and Museum, the famous St. Edmond’s Church (the quaint blue church that sits on the hill overlooking town), the tiny Big Valley Jailhouse, and the Jimmy Jock Boardwalk, a wild west area that’s home to a number of businesses such as a fudge factory, ice cream shop, bistro, cowboy shop, tea room, and art gallery.

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If shopping is your “game,” downtown Stettler also has many unique shops and western-themed outlets. Blume on Main, Tom’s Boot & Western Wear, Sweet Home, and the Stettler Brewing Company are just a sampling.

Other things to do in Stettler include a trip back in time at the Stettler Town & Country Museum (this is Alberta’s fifth-largest pioneer village), a downtown historical walking tour, and a round of golf at the fabulous Pheasantback Golf Course. Designed by Les Furber, one of Canada’s most prolific golf course architects, Pheasantback features an exciting, undulating, target-style course that serves up excellent views of the surrounding prairie landscapes. It is hands down, one of the best rural courses in Alberta.

But, in my opinion, one of the best things about a road trip to Stettler County is the interesting stops you can make along the way. Dry Island Buffalo Jump Provincial Park, (beautiful trails and stunning viewpoints over the badlands), the world-famous Royal Tyrrell Museum in Drumheller, and the super-cool ghost town of Rowley are a few things you can incorporate. (I always avoid travelling on busy Highway 2 if at all possible. You can pick many different routes to get to Stettler and they’ll all be good!)

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And, of course, this time of year – storm season! – can often yield some phenomenal clouds and photographing opportunities. Because of its old grain elevators and Western heritage buildings, I’ve made numerous stops in Rowley over the years (about 40 minutes straight south of Stettler). To me, this town also represents the “heart” of Alberta. Fittingly, on my last visit in early July, at 5:30 in the morning with the charged sky swirling and seething, my own heart was definitely working some overtime.

Andrew Penner is a Calgary-based writer and photographer. You can follow him on Instagram @andrewpennerphotography

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