Last: Unsung treasures from Austria and Hungary

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There are enough wines from Austria in our market to cover without including Hungary but I’m not sure it’s the case when you reverse the scenario, so I’ve lumped these neighbours together for this column. The last time I was there on a media trip we found ourselves crossing those borders a few times without notice, even though the trip was based on Austria and their wines. Historically, the two countries formed the Austro-Hungarian Empire, a dual monarchy, that existed between 1867 to 1918, and jointly they were a major force in Europe.

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Today, both countries are members of the EU (since 2007), and the Schengen Agreement allows citizens of both countries to travel freely between the two nations. From a wine perspective, those in Burgenland can make wine in Hungary, and several Austrian growers have either bought or leased Hungarian vineyards. Lately, I have tried some great wines from both countries that are brimming with personality and charm and worthy of exploration.

Austria may be best known for producing high-quality riesling and gruner veltliner but there are a couple of indigenous red grapes – most notably blaufrankisch – that can be a revelation. One producer in particular – Moric – is making red wines from this grape that have critics and writers such as Jancis Robinson swooning. Moric is the brainchild of winemaker Roland Velich who started the winery in 2021 and, within a short period, people were comparing his wines to Grand Cru Burgundy, not because they taste like pinot noir but because they can convey similar beguiling properties. There is underlying power to his wines, combined with plush fruits and minerality. His 2021 blaufrankisch ($45) and 2018 Moric Reserve ($80) are available in Calgary.

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Austria is also famous for gruner veltliner, an underappreciated white grape that can rival the great rieslings of the world in the right hands. Weingut Knoll, situated in the Wachau region about 150 kilometres west of Vienna – is one such producer. These high acid, mineral-driven wines can age for decades, but when served with food – most notably Asian fare – they can be enjoyed youthful as well. Young gruner often carries a distinct white pepper note that tends to fade over time but when young contribute to the spicy food compatibility. Knoll specializes in single vineyard wines that sell in the $60 range (and up), and are a worthy addition to any cellar.

Hungary’s great contribution to the wine world is Tokaji, one of the world’s oldest wines dating back to the 15th century. Production of the wine covers 5,500 hectares of vineyards spread among 27 villages and towns, focusing predominately on the indigenous furmint and harslevelu grapes. It’s assumed that in the 16th century, the invading Ottomans discovered that grapes affected by botrytized grapes (a.k.a. noble rot) could still be pressed and made into wine, delivering an incredibly sweet nectar known as aszu.

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Noble rot is also responsible for the famous sweet wines from Sauternes in France, as well as some wines from the Loire Valley. On its own, aszu is a syrup delivering a punch of about 450 grams of residual sugar per litre of wine. In its rarest form, the wine is called Eszencia, and the grapes are picked by hand, grape by grape, and sugar levels can exceed 600 grams. Because it’s impossible to ferment wine with this much sugar dry, they are typically bottled at about five per cent alcohol and will run you over $1,000 a half bottle if you can find one. One hectare of grapes will typically yield two bottles of wine; how crazy is that? More commonly, the nectar is mixed with base wine and then fermented and aged. The sugar levels are measured on a scale known as Puttonyos, with five and six puttonyos being the most common sweetness levels (aside from Eszencia).

Historically, the wine was coveted by kings and czars, but the communists put an end to that. When they invaded in 1956, they started blending it into factory-made plonk. After their fall in 1990, production resumed and eventually regained its rightful position as one of the world’s greatest sweet wines. It should be noted that there are very good dry wines made from the furmint grape as well, and most are very reasonably priced. Tokaji tends to be expensive for obvious reasons but if you want an inexpensive example, try the Grand Tokaji Szarmorodni ($17). I don’t know how they can make this style of wine for that price but it’s not bad at all. Things get serious when you choose a producer like Tokaji Classic ($160 a 500 ml bottle for their 6 Puttonyos) or Royal Tokaji 6 Puttonyos (also $160 per 500 ml bottle). Suffice it to say these are special occasion wines but they can rival anything from Sauternes, and that includes the legendary Chateau d’Yquem (app. $400 a half bottle). Because of the high sugar levels, a little goes a long way, which is why a 500 ml bottle makes sense. They can be served with things like foie gras, fruit tarts, especially tarte tatin, of blue cheese. Cheers!

Geoff Last is a long-time Calgary wine merchant writer, instructor, and broadcaster. He can be heard every Friday on CJSW’s Road Pops program between 4 -6 p.m. He was awarded a fellowship at Napa Valley’s Symposium of Professional Wine Writers for articles that have appeared in this column. Media inquiries can be directed to lastcallforwine@gmail.com

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