Farkas: Worth the wait – Aster Lake has it all

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By the time Stampede wraps up, many of us local hikers face a dilemma.

We’ve shaken out the cobwebs with a visit – or two, or three – to familiar early-season, front-range trails like Prairie Mountain. The true Rocky Mountains are calling, and we’re itching to answer. We’ve been patiently watching – and waiting – for just enough snow to melt, so we can safely get to a few special destinations out of reach during the winter and shoulder season.

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Summer in Alberta is short so when August rolls around we have to make it count. For a hike that can (at least, by us mortals) only be done right now, there’s no better hidden gem than Aster Lake.

The trail starts at the Upper Kananaskis Lake parking lot, less than a two-hour drive from Calgary. The path on the south side of the lake begins wide, with minimal elevation gain or loss as it tightly follows the shoreline. Occasional side paths cut out of the forest and out to the beach.

For the first 20 minutes, you’re likely to see big crowds heading for the easily accessible nearby waterfalls. But fear not; after passing the turn-off to Rawson Lake, traffic thins out considerably. After five kilometres and following the intersection up to Hidden Lake, the trail grows mildly steeper and overgrown.

This is where the fun begins. Depending on recent weather, hikers might find themselves shimmying under and/or over fallen trees. The effort is worth it, however, revealing several beautiful lunch spots at Hidden Lake. Although you won’t be able to see it quite yet, you’ll hear the thunderous roar of Fossil Falls above.

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You’re halfway to Aster Lake, in theory. But this is where the hike, for all practical purposes, starts. The exposed push up the headwall of Aster Lake and Mount Sarrail starts steep – and only gets steeper. The path is loose and occasionally requires using your hands. Motivation comes easier once the trail clears the trees, putting panoramic views of the Canadian Rockies on full display.

The scramble continues up towards Fossil Falls, with several exceptional photo opportunities of Mount Indefatigable and Mount Sarrail up above, and the Kananaskis Lakes resting far below. Occasional route-finding is required; there is a section involving steep scree and exposed trail. Several refreshing ice-cold mountain streams offer a silver lining. (Tip: To significantly reduce your pack weight, bring a small personal water filter to treat and drink water as necessary. This way, you’ll avoid needing to carry a gallon of water all the way up.)

Once you breach the headwall, the trail levels out, entering a breathtaking alpine mountain biome. Depending on the weather, the tree cover is likely to be a welcome respite from the wind and sun. Keep an eye out for alpine lilies, marmots, pikas and mountain goats along the trail.

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Take a short dip at the falls, then keep going! When you see the sign for the Alberta Parks warden cabin, you’ll know you’re close. And once you spot the legendary Aster Lake backcountry outhouse, you’ll know you’re there.

Look no further than Aster Lake for proof that good things come to those who wait.

·   Distance: 12 kilometres one-way, or 24 km return. To extend your adventure, there are designated Alberta Parks backcountry campsites near Aster Lake. Be sure to book in advance. This trail can be part of a larger loop including Northover Ridge and Three Isle Lake, offering even more spectacular views and diverse terrain.

·   Elevation gain: 1,020 metres.

·   Where to start: Upper Kananaskis Lake Day Use, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, accessed from Highway 40 South.

·   Drive time: 1 hour 40 minutes from downtown Calgary.

·   Difficulty: Moderate-to-challenging, and more a test of endurance than technical skills. As a day trip, this would be appropriate for hikers who handily tackle local scrambles (such as Yamnuska or Heart Mountain) and are looking for a longer day with even greater reward. If staying overnight at Aster Lake, this is a perfect length for most hikers. Travel in a group and make noise; this is a “core area” for grizzly bears.

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·   When to hike: August is prime time, but be prepared for rapid weather changes. Winter conditions can both persist and begin early. Visit www.albertaparks.ca for up-to-date information.

·   Don’t forget: Kananaskis Conservation Pass and back-country preparations such as travel plan, water filter, bear spray, microspikes, layers, headlamp, and trekking poles.

Final verdict: Summers are short and we have to make them count. Offering lush lakeside forest cover, towering waterfalls, rocky scrambles, and alpine meadows, Aster Lake has it all. This high summer trail is best enjoyed as a stopover for adventures deeper into the Canadian Rockies and across the Continental Divide.

Former city councillor Jeromy “Pathfinder” Farkas is chief executive officer at the Glenbow Ranch Park Foundation. His trail column appears in the Calgary Herald every second Saturday of the month.

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