Farkas: Rain or shine, Mount Assiniboine must be seen to be believed

Article content

It’s not the most fit, stubborn, or daring hikers who see the best views and get to share the story; when all is said and done, it’s the most flexible.

Day 1 – 18 km

To get to Mount Assiniboine on foot, you have two options – to approach from Sunshine Village to the north or from Bryant Creek to the south. We decided on the latter, generally considered the easier choice.

Article content

Within two hours of leaving home, my friends and I arrived at the Mount Shark trailhead. The trail – or rather, a wide and packed dirt road – starts easily for the first six kilometres. After about an hour of walking, we descended a steep hill and into the trees.

We maintain a good pace through the forest, walking alongside Bryant Creek at times. The trail once more opens, this time to a meadow surrounded in every direction by stunning peaks. A minor detour, and then we arrive at the Bryant Creek shelter. The hut is closed and slated to be demolished. I peek inside and spot a wooden stove, bunks, a table, and broom; everything that you need for a great ski trip. I know that it will be missed once it’s gone.

While the final few kilometres are beautiful, my loaded pack starts to feel heavier and heavier. We set up at a backcountry campground near Allenby Junction and enjoy rehydrated meals. After crawling into my sleeping bag by 6:30 p.m., I realize that’s probably the earliest I’ve ever gone to bed on my birthday.

Day 2 – 25 km

I occasionally wake to rain through the night. I fall back to sleep easily; after over 200 nights of sleeping in a tent, I’ve found it to be almost comfortable. Almost.

Article content

Article content

The rain does not let up by morning. We don our rain jackets and rain pants. Surprisingly, it’s not too cold. As we approach the climb up Assiniboine Pass, nearby streams overflow their banks, with water completely overtaking the trail.

Then the snow began. For a time, we lose the trail completely. We arrive at an old avalanche debris field, filled with rocks, ice, and torn trees. After carefully navigating across, we begin the steep climb up Assiniboine Pass.

The rain stops and starts. After a brief rest at Rosie’s Corner, we find ourselves at the Great Divide and sign marking our entry into British Columbia. The trail levels out and the snow gradually disappears. With a spring in my step, I head downhill through O’Brien Meadows and towards Lake Magog.

Our arrival at the legendary Assiniboine Lodge is anticlimactic. Most of our views – namely, the mountain that we’re here to see – are obscured by the storm clouds up above. We took refuge in the group cooking hut and converse with a group visiting on a photography tour. After an extended lunch, we build up our resolve to head back out and into the rain. We return via Assiniboine Pass, the way we came. The final miles to Big Springs feel so much longer than they were yesterday.

Article content

Day 3 – 9 km

The rain continues through the night and doesn’t let up. We pack our tents and enjoy a brief breakfast in the rain. Heading back to the trailhead, a light backpack – combined with extra motivation for dry socks and warm food – makes the trail feel almost too easy.

We arrive in Canmore to take in the Canada Day parade. We cap off a successful – although not entirely to plan – weekend with a well-earned visit to the Grizzly Paw Pub.

Distance: 23 kilometres one-way to Assiniboine Lodge via Bryant Creek and Assiniboine Pass. This trip is best broken up into multiple days with overnight stops in Parks Canada backcountry campgrounds in the Bryant Creek area, such as Br9, Br13, Br14, and Br17.

Elevation: 880 metres.

Where to start: Mount Shark trailhead, accessed from Highway 742.

Drive time: 2 hours, 10 minutes from downtown Calgary.

Difficulty: To attempt an “out-and-back” in a single day is tough. But if split up into multiple days, this trip is only a moderate challenge. There can be avalanche risk. Travel in a group and make noise; this is a “core area” for grizzly bears in Banff National Park. Hikers have surprised mama bears here in late summer, becoming seriously injured.

Article content

When to hike: June through September, although winter conditions can both persist and begin early. Contact www.assiniboinelodge.com and www.avalanche.ca for up-to-date information.

Final verdict: Known as the “Matterhorn of the Rockies,” Mount Assiniboine is likely one of the most recognizable, but least experienced, of all Banff-area destinations. A pricey helicopter flight isn’t the only way to get a taste of the legendary Assiniboine Lodge tea time, however. Those hikers flexible enough to make the trek will tell you that this is a place that must be seen to be believed.

Former city councillor Jeromy “Pathfinder” Farkas is chief executive officer at the Glenbow Ranch Park Foundation, protecting and promoting Alberta’s signature provincial park through engagement, education, and conservation. (ceo@grpf.ca)

Article content